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Canadian winters left my skin dull and dehydrated. Creams just sat on my skin while my face still felt dry and tight. That’s when I turned to Korean beauty.
Here’s the truth about the viral 10-step Korean skin care routine though: there isn’t a set rulebook to follow each step every day, rather it’s a flexible framework that took off from North America inspired by K-beauty and is built on deep cleansing, hydration, targeted treatment and daily protection. Think layers depending on what your skin needs today. But remember the point isn’t to hit all ten steps, instead at the core of K-beauty is consistency and commitment in your routine.
“Your skin, like any other organ in our body, will respond well to consistent maintenance and care,” says Peter Lee, Co-Founder & CEO of Saranghae. “It’s less about ‘How can I solve this problem now?’ and more about ‘How will my skin respond to consistent and proper care?’”
Some nights it’s ten steps and others it’s five, but I also realized this—consistency beats intensity.
“We tend to overestimate what a great skincare routine will do for us in the short term, to our disappointment from expectations, but we tend to underestimate what it can do for us long term,” Lee adds.
According to Lee, the 10-step skincare routine acts more like a guide in which you can customize your own skincare routine. Expect to tweak your routine with the seasons, your lifestyle, and skin sensitivity and try out the steps below to customize yourself.
Step 1: Cleansing Oil (PM)
A lightweight, fragrance-free cleansing oil that sweeps away buildup while the heartleaf extract comforts sensitive skin. It works for all skin types, especially sensitive ones leaving skin calm, balanced, and clean. Cleansing oil is key in binding to other oils, sebum, makeup and SPF that’s been on your face all day and removing it. This step is very commonly used in Korean routines.
Step 2: Water-Based Cleanser (AM/PM)
A gentle, dermatologist-tested, pH-balancing foaming cleanser that hydrates the skin with glycerin and green tea extract while the triple-lipid complex supports barrier repair all while cleaning without stripping. You’ll love the hydrated complexion and balanced glow. Once the oil and makeup has been deep cleaned, a water or foaming cleanser cleans the rest of the impurities, says Lee.
Step 3: Exfoliator (2-3x a week, PM)
Dual-sided exfoliating pads that gently smooth and hydrate. The heartleaf BHA blend exfoliates skin and removes dead skin while hydrating at the same time. It’s easy to use and travel with just swipe-and-go for quick and effective exfoliation. Use these exfoliating pads depending on what suits your skin best. Exfoliating 2-3 times a week is recommended for most skin types. Always listen to how your skin is feeling, you know it best.
Step 4: Toner (AM and PM)
This hydrating toner floods the skin with moisture while gently exfoliating. With watermelon extract, glycerin, and PHA/BHA combo, your skin will be soft, smooth, and supple ready for the next step. “A go-to hack that I love is using toner-soaked cotton pads as mini masks to deeply hydrate and smooth skin before makeup, especially when my skin needs a little TLC,” says Sarah Lee Co-Founder and Co-CEO of Glow Recipe. “I saturate each cotton pad with the Watermelon Glow Toner and apply to the cheeks, forehead, nose and chin for 5-10 minutes for glowing, silky-smooth, glass skin. It’s a game changer.”
Step 5: Essence (AM and PM)
An essence that boosts skin with fermented superfoods to flood skin with hydration, refine texture and strengthen skin barrier. It layers weightlessly so the rest of your skin care absorbs better and skin looks radiant. Before heavier serums, lay down a veil of hydration which is the essence. “[This is] sort of like a serum but lighter in texture,” Lee from Saranghae. “The purpose is to provide the base layer of hydration and calm inflammation.”
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Step 6: Serums or Ampoules (AM and PM)
Think dewy in seconds with this green tea infused hyaluronic serum that’s 5 times more absorbent and drenches skin. Panthenol and niacinamide strengthen the barrier, calm redness and seal in moisture for bouncy skin. Your serum should match your skin’s goal. I reach for hyalronic acid to give my skin a burst of hydration and here’s what Lee says about other serums. “We recommend using concentrated correctives like vitamin C, retinol or retinal at night only,” he says. “There are instances where you can wear them during the day, but you must wear sunscreen and you should be aware of which correctives you are mixing together. Not all correctives can be combined.”
Step 7: Sheet Mask (PM)
A soothing sheet mask with ceramide NP and panthenol that deeply moisturizes and strengthens skin barrier. It leaves skin glowing and supple. Plus it comes in a pack of five, perfect for weekly resets. I personally love sheet masks for an instant hit of moisture but there is a sweet spot for how often to use them. “Two times a week, not everyday, it’s an occlusive, meaning it won’t allow your pores to breathe so you shouldn’t mask too often,” explains Lee.
Step 8: Eye Cream (AM and PM)
A powerful eye cream that taps a rare triple-mushroom complex to target signs of aging, fatigue while brightening, hydrating and firming eyes so you look more awake and well-rested in no time. While it may not always be necessary, “the eye area is sensitive and thinner so good eye creams or serums will be slightly tackier, more moisturizing and will be more soothing,” explains Lee.
Step 9: Moisturizer (AM and PM)
This airy, silky moisturizer glides on like a cloud leaving skin feeling cushioned, soft and smooth with hyaluronic acid being the key ingredient. It sinks in fast and layers flawlessly under SPF. No matter your skin type, always use moisturizer and pick based on what your skin needs. This layer is key to keeping your barrier intact.
Overnight Mask (PM-optional)
Smooth on this jelly mask and let it do the night shift to brighten and even skin tone. With vitamin C, niacinamide, and hyaluronic acid, you’ll wake up with plump and glowing skin. For those nights when you need an extra boost of hydration, an overnight mask is the skin treat that will seal in the moisture, support barrier, and help you wake up with plump skin.
Step 10: SPF (AM)
A lightweight SPF 50+ that’s formulated with centella asiatica and hydro ionized mineral water to soothe and hydrate skin. Plus, there’s no white cast or grease making it perfect for daily use. “Sunscreen is the single most effective tool against future skin concerns and skin aging. If you don’t wear sunscreen, it’s like taking one step forward and three steps back,” says Lee.
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